There are cows that eat only grass and roam free. There are Kobe cattle, whose muscles are massaged for months to tenderize the meat they eventually produce.
And then there are José Gordon’s oxen.
An animal lucky enough to be part of the restaurateur/rancher’s herd in northwestern Spain gets to laze about in mountain pastures redolent of thyme and other fragrant herbs. It is stroked with metal brushes. It might even get a pedicure.
Above all, unlike normal steers that spend a few months in a feedlot and then go to market, the cattle in Mr. Gordon’s herd are allowed to live for years, sometimes close to their life spans of nearly two decades, before being turned into steaks for his restaurant.
The slow-food movement was never quite like this. Mr. Gordon’s methods, he admits, are “a type of madness.”
For more, continue reading the original article in The Wall Street Journal.