Our American Dream: Hugo Ortega, From Homeless Immigrant to Houston's Celebrated Chef

Chefs and brothers Hugo and Ruben Ortega work together at both Hugo’s and Backstreet Cafe, shown here. (Paula Murphy/Patterson & Murphy Public Relations)

This chocolate pyramid dessert from Hugo’s is served with sauce and candy made from Xoconostle, a cactus fruit from Mexico.<br>   (Kenneth Roy Stearns)

Fish “a la Veracruzana” style at Hugo’s is served with onion, tomatoes and green olives. (Paula Murphy/Patterson & Murphy Public Relations)

Another Hugo’s dish offers crab with a small salad of carrot, squash and chayote. (Paula Murphy/Patterson & Murphy Public Relations)

Hugo Ortega stands with his daughter Sophia Elizabeth on Father’s Day. (Paula Murphy/Patterson & Murphy Public Relations)

Chef Hugo Ortega and his wife Tracy Vaught sit with famed Mexican cookbook writer Diana Kennedy when they hosted a signing at Hugo’s. (Paula Murphy/Patterson & Murphy Public Relations)

Hugo’s sits in the heart of Houston’s Montrose area. (Paula Murphy/Patterson & Murphy Public Relations)

Serving moles, tamales, squash blossoms and other authentic Mexican dishes, Hugo’s, seen here, opened in 2002. (Paula Murphy/Patterson & Murphy Public Relations)