Sunken ships and bomb damage scar Georgian coast
Monday, September 08, 2008
POTI, Georgia Bomb craters scar Georgia's devastated naval port, and Russian forces dig in at a bustling base nearby. Half-empty beach resorts count the losses from a ruined summer season.
Along the former Soviet republic's balmy, palm-lined Black Sea coast, last month's war with Russia has stirred anger over Moscow's brazen occupation and anxiety about the future of a country still struggling to its feet after the Soviet collapse.
The war broke out Aug. 7 in South Ossetia, far to the east, when Russia responded to a Georgian offensive by sending troops, tanks and warplanes that soon drove deep into Georgian territory.
One of the first Russian targets was the military port at Poti, which bore the brunt of what Georgian officials and shaken residents say was a midnight bombing raid by Russian warplanes.
"There were bombs falling and explosions, and people running everywhere," said Zia Kvelesiani, a weathered 45-year-old woman selling sunflower seeds at the adjacent commercial port as the flagship of the U.S. Navy's 6th Fleet anchored to deliver humanitarian aid.
The damage was starkly clear.
The flagship of Georgia's own tiny naval fleet, the missile boat Dioskuria, lay submerged at dockside; only the top protruded from the water. Another missile boat was in pieces nearby, and a white coast guard cutter lolled at an awkward angle with part of its deck under water.
A total of eight navy and coast guard ships were destroyed by the Russians, who set off explosives on board during nearly daily intrusions at the military port, said Capt. Lt. Alexander Kutateladze, who served aboard the Dioskuria.
Several small bomb craters dotted the docks. Georgia's two-story naval headquarters building was pocked with bullet and shrapnel marks.
"One of our men was killed in there," Kutateladze said, pointing at a blown-out window.
He said five serviceman were killed and 25 were wounded in the Russian attack.
Inside, the building had been ransacked. A room used for English lessons provided by a British government agency was a jumble of damaged desks, lesson books and scattered papers.
Officials said five workers were killed and 40 people injured at the commercial port, where walls and two towering tanks for oil products were scarred by shrapnel. Two of the dead were killed by a bomb that took out the main power supply, officials said.
About 2 miles up the coast, Russian forces milled at a makeshift base, the tricolor Russian flag flying over light tanks and armored personnel carriers behind an earthen berm and a razor-wire fence.
An excavator dug new holes in the earth nearby.
The Russian post is one of two on the outskirts of Poti, a presence the U.S. and European Union say violates the terms of a cease-fire calling for a withdrawal to positions they held before the war.
"They have no right to be here," said Ketino Kebuchava, a shop owner in Poti who fled Abkhazia, a separatist province farther north on the coast, when it broke from Georgian government control in an early 1990s war.
With Russian forces ringing Abkhazia, she fears she will never return to her hometown.
On Monday, Georgia accused Russia of reinforcing its posts near Poti over the weekend while French President Nicolas Sarkozy pressed Moscow to honor a cease-fire agreement that included a pledge to withdraw its troops from Georgia.
After the meeting with Sarkozy, Russian President Dmitry Medvedev said Russian troops would withdraw from Poti and nearby areas in the next seven days. He said troops would withdraw from positions surrounding South Ossetia and Abkhazia within 10 days after European Union monitors deploy to those areas, which is slated to happen no later than Oct. 1.
Resort towns to the south along the shore were left unscathed in the war, but are feeling the bite from a tourist season gone bad.
In Kobuleti, crowds were thin Friday night on the strip of shops, cafes and open-air dance halls along the main road beside the beach, even though school hasn't started in Georgia and the vacation season should be going strong.
Tamaz Makharadze had the bad luck to open a hotel a few blocks from the stony beach in Batumi, a port and resort city, on Aug. 1.
"The hotel was almost full and we were booked for the month," he said.
All but one guest left after the war began, forcing him to close and leaving him without means to pay the $215,000 he borrowed to prepare for the opening.
Makharadze hopes the bank will give a reprieve until next year _ and that U.S. and European support for Georgia will preclude any further Russian aggression.
"We can't have a war every summer, can we? God forbid," he said.
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