A busy New York Fashion Week wrapped up last night with Marc Jacobs' fall 2013 show at the New York State Armory. The show included a giant artificial sun, a pretty good metaphor for a Fashion Week dominated by weather. Jacobs show was delayed, in part, because of the big snowstorm on Sunday. But by last night, the weather had warmed and so had the clothes.
Jacobs' looks were fairly plain by his standards. Pajama silhouettes and lots of browns, grays and roses peppered the runway. Still, they left a warm feeling with many editors.
Shades of red were a dominant theme this season. LIke Jacobs' rose, red was present or at least splashed in most collections. The range went from bright candy apple, to magenta, to orange, to deep purple. Some of the best pairings were the black and red combos at Reem Acra.
Sharon Graubard, Senior Vice President and Fashion Director at trend watching firm Stylesight said "great colors inspire us, and we're seeing the emergence of a great new color combination this season...wines mixed with blues."
She says New York Fashion Week overall showed a lot of wearable clothing. Along that theme, one of the biggest trends this year was the dominance of black.
Other notable trends included cutouts, plaids, rounded shoulders, comfort clothing, and fur.
I particularly like the Ralph Rucci show I saw at the Mercedes Benz Lincoln Center tents. His extensive and luxurious collection even got a standing ovation.
Another big story this week was the Oscar de La Renta collection where some saw once-disgraced designer John Galliano's possible subtle influence. It's something to watch especially after Galliano courted controversy by stepping out in what some considered a Hasidic-inspired outfit.
Thom Browne's collection got a lot of attention with a kinky setting and dramatic Frankenstein silhouette. His victorious dressing of First Lady Michelle Obama for the inauguration didn't mean a toned-down show.
While Browne wasn't in this camp, Graubard says New York designers in general are playing it a little safe.
There's been some criticism that collections may have been overly commercial, but there were certainly bright spots.
On Alexander Wang, Graubard said "It was just experimental enough." Wang is headed to Paris for Balenciaga next season. His Fall 2013 collection got a mostly warm reception.
Graubard also raved about Phillip Lim's fall 2013 collection liking his motorcycle jacket and his "new interest in quality."
Another highlight, in Graubard's opinion was the heavy presence of emerging designers and talent. She noted the debut of the New York collection of Madrid-based Delpozo. It's an old Spanish fashion house now headed by Creative Director Josep Font.
She, along with many style-watchers, also liked Proenza Schouler; "We thought Schouler was very grown up, very cleaned, very minimal, and confident, modern. "
Mark Sikes, who runs a lifestyle blog MarkDSikes.com said the Proenza Schouler collection was his favorite, "There was a refinement and elegance to the collection that resonated. The design team of Jack and Lazaro always bring an edge, however, the Fall 2013 collection had something special."
Fashion week moves to London on Friday. Then it's Milan and Paris. We'll see if New York trends get pickup overseas.